Multi-colored Cropped Sweater (Free Knitting Pattern)

Directions are for size Small. Changes for sizes Medium, Large, 1X and 2X are in parentheses.
 
To Fit Bust 32–36 (36–40, 40–44, 44–48, 48–52)” (81.5–91.5 (91.5–101.5, 101.5–112, 112–122, 122–132) cm)
 
Finished Bust: 40 (43½, 47½, 51, 55)” (101.5 (110.5, 120.5, 129.5, 139.5) cm) Finished Length: 20 (20½, 21½, 22, 23)” (51 (52, 54.5, 56, 58.5) cm)
 
Special Stitches kfb (Knit into front and back) = Knit next st but do not remove from needle, knit into back loop of same st and remove from needle.
 
ssk = slip next two stitches knitwise to right needle, insert point of left needle through front of stitches, knit these stitches together through back loop.

Pattern Stitches
1 x 1 Rib (multiple of 2 sts)
Row 1: *K1, p1; repeat from * across.
 
Row 2: K the knit sts and p the purl sts, as they appear. Repeat Row 2 for 1 x 1 Rib.
 
Moss Stitch Rib (multiple of 7 sts + 3)
 
Row 1 (right side): P3, *k1, p1, k2, p3; rep from * across.
 
Row 2: K3, *p2, k1, p1, k3; repeat from * across.
 
Row 3: P3, *k2, p1, k1, p3; repeat from * across.
 
Row 4: K3, *p1, k1, p2, k3; repeat from * across.
 
Repeat Rows 1–4 for Moss Stitch Rib

Notes
1. Sweater is worked in four pieces: Back, front, and two sleeves. Each piece is worked from the lower edge up to the neck edge.
 
2. Ribbed lower edge, cuffs, and neckband are worked as each piece is knit. Pieces are seamed to form sweater.
 
3. Designer Tip: When binding off stitches at neck edge, cut yarn leaving a tail long enough to sew a raglan seam.

BACK
Cast on 72 (80, 86, 94, 100) sts. Work in 1x1 Rib until piece measures about 1” (2.5 cm) from beginning; end with a right side row.
 
Increase Row (wrong side): [K1, p1] 8 (13, 10, 15, 12) times, kfb, p1; repeat from * 2 (1, 2, 1, 2) more time(s), *k1, p1; repeat from **
to end of row—75 (82, 89, 96, 103) sts

Begin Moss Rib Stitch
 
Row 1 (set-up row – right side): K1 (selvedge st), work Row 1 of Moss Rib Stitch to last st, k1 (selvedge st).
 
Row 2: P1, work Row 2 of Moss Rib Stitch to last st, p1.
 
Row 3: K1, work Row 3 of Moss Rib Stitch to last st, k1.
 
Row 4: P1, work Row 2 of Moss Rib Stitch to last st, p1.
 
Repeat Rows 1–4 until piece measures about 12 (12, 12½, 12½, 13)” (30.5 (30.5, 32, 32, 33) cm) from beginning; end with a wrong
side row.

Shape Raglan Armholes
 
Note: When instructed to work in Moss Rib Stitch “as established”, work the next row of Moss Rib Stitch taking care to line up the stitches as in previous rows.
 
Row 1 (right side): Bind off first 4 (4, 5, 6, 7) sts, work in Moss Rib Stitch as established to last st, k1—71 (78, 84, 90, 96) sts.
 
Row 2: Bind off first 4 (4, 5, 6, 7) sts, work in Moss Rib Stitch as established to last st, p1—67 (74, 79, 84, 89) sts.
 
Row 3 (decrease row – right side): K1, ssk, work in Moss Rib Stitch as established to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—65 (72, 77, 82, 87) sts.
 
Row 4: P1, work in Moss Rib Stitch as established to last st, p1.
 
Row 5: Repeat Row 3 (decrease row)—63 (70, 75, 80, 85) sts.
Repeat last 2 rows 19 (22, 24, 26, 28) more times—25 (26, 27, 28, 29) sts.
 
Note: Measure the piece from time to time as you shape the raglan armholes. When the armholes measure about 7 (7½, 8, 8½, 9)” (18 (19, 20.5, 21.5, 23) cm) from beginning (measured straight up, not along the diagonal), change to working 1x1 Rib instead of Moss Rib Stitch and continue to work the decreases until all of the decreases have been worked. When the decreases are complete, continue working in 1x1 Rib without decreasing, until piece measures about 20 (20½, 21½, 22, 23)” (51 (52, 54.5, 56, 58.5) cm) from beginning.
Bind off

FRONT
Make same as back.

SLEEVES (make 2)
Cast on 52 (52, 58, 58, 66) sts.
Work in 1x1 Rib until piece measures about 1” (2.5 cm) from beginning; end with a right side row.
 
Increase Row (wrong side): [K1, p1] 8 (8, 6, 6, 10) times, kfb, p1; repeat from * 1 (1, 2, 2, 1) more time(s), *k1, p1; repeat from ** to end of row—54 (54, 61, 61, 68) sts.

Begin Moss Rib Stitch
 
Row 1 (set-up row – right side): K1 (selvedge st), work Row 1 of Moss Rib Stitch to last st, k1 (selvedge st).
 
Note: When instructed to work in Moss Rib Stitch “as established”, work the next row of Moss Rib Stitch taking care to line up the stitches as in previous rows.
 
Row 2: P1, work in Moss Rib Stitch as established, p1.
 
Row 3: K1, work in Moss Rib Stitch as established to last st, k1.
 
Row 4: P1, work in Moss Rib Stitch as established to last st, p1.
 
Rows 5–20 (12, 20, 12, 16): Repeat last 2 rows 8 (4, 8, 4, 6) more times.
 
Row 21 (13, 21, 13, 17) (increase row – right side): K1, kfb, work in Moss Rib Stitch as established to last 2 sts, kfb, k1—56 (56, 63, 63, 70) sts.
 
Repeat Rows 2–21 (13, 21, 13, 17), 2 (4, 2, 4, 3) more times—60 (64, 67, 71, 76) sts.
 
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 (work even) until piece measures about 12” 30.5 cm) from beginning; end with a wrong side row.

Shape Raglan Edges
 
Row 1 (right side): Bind off first 4 (4, 5, 6, 7) sts, work in Moss Rib Stitch as established to last st, k1—56 (60, 62, 65, 69) sts.
 
Row 2: Bind off first 4 (4, 5, 6, 7) sts, work in Moss Rib Stitch as established to last st, p1—52 (56, 57, 59, 62) sts.
 
Row 3 (decrease row – right side): K1, ssk, work in Moss Rib Stitch as established to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—50 954, 55, 57, 60) sts.
 
Row 4: P1, work in Moss Rib Stitch as established to last st, p1.
 
Row 5: Repeat Row 3 (decrease row)—48 (52, 53, 55, 58) sts.
Repeat last 2 rows 18 (20, 20, 21, 22) more times—12 (12, 13, 13, 14) sts.
 
Work even in Moss Rib Stitch as established until raglans measure about 7 (7½, 8, 8½, 9)” (18 (19, 20.5, 21.5, 23) cm) from beginning (measured straight up, not along the diagonal). Work in 1x1 Rib nstead of Moss Rib Stitch until piece measures about 20 (20½, 21, 21½, 22)” (51 (52, 54.5, 56, 58.5) cm) from beginning.
Bind off.

FINISHING
Sew raglan seams. Sew underarm and side seams. Weave in ends.
 

ABBREVIATIONS
k = knit; k2tog = knit next 2 sts together; p = purl; st(s) = stitch(es); [ ] = work directions in brackets the number of times specified; * or ** = repeat whatever follows the * or ** as indicated.
 
Thanks to Red Heart for the permission to share this pattern.