Knitted Mirror Socks (Free Pattern)

Finished Size
About 6½ (7, 7½ , 8, 8½ , 9)" (16.5 [18, 19, 20.5, 21.5, 23] cm) foot circumference, 8¾ (9¼ , 9¾ , 10¼ , 10¾ , 11¼ )" (22 [23.5, 25, 26, 27.5, 28.5] cm) foot length from back of heel to tip of toe (length is adjustable), and 6½ (6½ , 7, 8, 8, 8)" (16.5 [16.5, 18, 20.5, 20.5, 20.5] cm) leg length from top of cuff to start of heel flap. Socks shown measure 7" (18 cm) foot circumference.
 
Yarn
Fingering weight (#1 Super Fine).
 
Shown here: Koigu Premium Solid Merino Yarn - 2332 (KPPPM) (100% merino wool; 175 yd [160 m]/50 g): #P239 Green Mix and #P157 Pink Mix, 1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2) skein(s) each.
 
Needles
Size U.S. 1 (2.25 mm): set of 4 or 5 double-pointed (dpn), one 32" to 40" (80 to 100 cm) circular (cir) or two 16" (40 cm) cir.
 
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
 
Notions
Spare needle(s) in same size as main needle(s); stitch holders; removable stitch marker (m); cable needle (cn); tapestry needle.
 
Gauge
17 sts and 25 rnds = 2" (5 cm) in double-knit St st worked in rnds, relaxed after blocking.

Notes
• The two socks are worked at the same time in double knitting, with one sock inside the other; use a separate ball of yarn for each sock.
 
• The stitches are distributed on the needles so that one stitch for the outside sock is followed by one stitch for the inside sock.
 
• You might need to use smaller needles than usual to get gauge in double-knitting stockinette stitch.
 
• The two colors exchange places four times: after the ribbed cuff, at the start of the heel flap, at the start of the gusset joining round, and at the beginning of the toe.
• When swapping colors, cut the old color leaving a 6" (15 cm) tail. Tie the new color around the old color, also leaving a 6" (15 cm) tail, so that the knot of the new color can slide up the old tail and fit snugly against the needle. Doing so will keep the last stitch of the old yarn and the first stitch of the new yarn tight and tidy and reduce the risk of tangling. Tuck the tails between the two socks to keep them out of the way.
 
• For ease of knitting, the socks are worked with their right sides touching to minimize yarn movement and reduce tangling. For the stockinette portions, the outer sock has its purl side on the outside of the cylinder, and its yarn sits at the front of the work. The inner sock has its purl side on the inside of the cylinder, and its yarn sits at the back of the work. This is considered “home position” for the yarns.
 
• In “home position,” Y1 is whichever color is currently being used for the outer sock at the front of the work, and Y2 is the color being for the inner sock at the back of the work.
 
• Periodically, check to make sure the socks remain separate. Look between the needle tips as you work to be sure the layers have not become locked together and run your fingers up from underneath, between the two socks, all the way to the needles.
 
• It’s not unusual for the outer sock to get ladders of loose stitches between the needles. This happens because the yarn has to travel a little farther around the outside of the cylinder between the needles. To help alleviate the loose stitches, pull the first two Y1 stitches after a needle change a little tighter than usual. Most ladders will disappear after washing and wearing, so don’t worry too much if you can’t eliminate them entirely as you knit.

Cuffs
The two socks are CO separately at the start of the cuff. With Yarn 1 (Y1), main needle(s), and using a flexible method (see Glossary), CO 56 (60, 64, 68, 72, 76) sts. Arrange sts as preferred (see page 6), place marker (pm), and join for working in rnds, being careful not to twist sts.
 
Y1 set-up rnd: *K1, p1; rep from *.
 
Set aside.
 
With Yarn 2 (Y2) and spare needle(s), CO 56 (60, 64, 68, 72, 76) sts onto a single dpn or cir needle. Do not work any sts yet.
 
Transfer sts to same needles: Hold the needles together and parallel so the needle with the Y2 sts is behind the needle with the Y1 sts. The working strand of Y1 should be at the right needle tip, and the working strand from the Y2 cast-on should be at the end of the Y2 sts. Slip all sts purlwise (pwise) with Y1 in front of work and Y2 in back of work.
 
Without working any sts, slip sts alternately onto the main needles as foll: *Sl 1 Y1 st pwise on front needle, sl 1 Y2 st pwise from back needle onto front needle; rep from *—112 (120, 128, 136, 144, 152) sts total on same needles; 56 (60, 64, 68, 72, 76) sts of each color, alternating Y1 and Y2.
 
If working with multiple needles, make sure each needle begins with a Y1 st and ends with a Y2 st, and if using a single cir needle for magic-loop, make sure each side begins with a Y1 st and ends with a Y2 st.
 
Y2 set-up rnd: Working with Y2 only, *sl 1 Y1 st, k1 with Y2, sl 1 Y1 st, p1 Y2 st; rep from *—all Y1 sts have been slipped without being worked; one rnd of k1, p1 rib completed on Y2 sts.

Note: When working k1, p1 rib in double knitting, move Y1 to the back of the work to knit a Y1 stitch, then move it to the front of the work again; move Y2 to the front of the work to purl a Y2 stitch, then move it to the back of the work again. You must always move the yarns in this manner immediately before and after working a stitch; otherwise, the two layers will become interlocked.

Rib rnd: Moving yarns as described in the note above, *k1 with Y1, k1 with Y2, p1 with Y1, p1 with Y2; rep from *. Rep this rnd until pieces measure 1½ " (3.8 cm) from CO. Place a removable stitch marker in the fabric of the outer sock to help you keep track of which is which when you swap the two colors.
 
Legs
Cut the yarns and swap them so that former Y1 sts will be worked with Y2, and former Y2 sts will be worked with Y1 (see Notes). The new Y1 will rem at the front of the work; the new Y2 will rem at the back.
 
St st rnd: *P1 with Y1, k1 with Y2; rep from *.
 
Rep the last rnd until piece measures 6½ (6½ , 7, 8, 8, 8)" (16.5 [16.5, 18, 20.5, 20.5, 20.5] cm) from CO, or desired length to top of heel fl ap.
 
Heels
Cut the yarns and swap them again so that former Y1 sts will be worked with Y2, and former Y2 sts will be worked with Y1; see the note at the start of the heel flaps for yarn-handling instructions.
 
Heel Flaps
Notes: The heel flaps are worked back and forth in stockinette double knitting on the fi rst half of the Y1 stitches and the corresponding half of the Y2 stitches. When working in rows, purl or slip the stitches of the front layer (the side facing you) keeping the yarn in front (wyf); and knit or slip the stitches of the back layer, keeping the yarn in back (wyb). Take care that the yarns don’t cross or interlock at the ends of the rows; the two heel flaps should remain completely separate from each other.

Row 1: (Y1 side facing) [P1 with Y1, k1 with Y2] 28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 38) times—28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 38) sts for each heel flap. Place rem 28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 38) sts for each sock onto holder to work later for instep. Turn work so Y2 side is facing.
 
Row 2: (Y2 side facing) Sl 1 Y2 st wyf, sl 1 Y1 st wyb, [p1 with Y2, k1 with Y1] 27 (29, 31, 33, 35, 37) times, turn work.
 
Row 3: Sl 1 Y1 st wyf, sl 1 Y2 st wyb, [p1 with Y1, k1 with Y2] 27 (29, 31, 33, 35, 37) times, turn work.
 
Row 4: Sl 1 Y2 st wyf, sl 1 Y1 st wyb, [p1 with Y2, k1 with Y1] 27 (29, 31, 33, 35, 37) times, turn work.
Rep Rows 3 and 4 only 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 16) more times—24 (26, 28, 30, 32, 36) heel fl ap rows; flap measures about 2 (2, 2¼ , 2½ , 2½ , 2¾ )" (5 [5, 5.5, 6.5, 6.5, 7] cm).

Turn Heels
 
Notes: In order to work decreases, the stitches have to be rearranged so that two Y1 stitches are adjacent to each other, and two Y2 stitches are adjacent to each other. You might find a cable needle helpful for rearranging stitches. With the Y1 side facing, place 2 stitches (Y1 and Y2) onto a cable needle and hold in back of the work, return the Y1 at the beginning of the cable needle to the left needle—2 sts of Y1 adjacent to each other at left needle tip. Work the Y1 decrease, return the Y2 stitch on the cable needle to the left needle, then work the Y2 decrease. For decreases worked with the Y2 side facing, rearrange the stitches in the same manner, but reverse the colors in the description. Work short-rows to turn heels as foll.

Short-Row 1: (Y1 facing) [P1 with Y1, k1 with Y2] 19 (20, 21, 23, 24, 25) times, p2tog with Y1, ssk with Y2, turn work.
 
Short-Row 2: (Y2 facing) Sl 1 Y2 st wyf, sl 1 Y1 st wyb, [p1 with Y2, k1 with Y1] 10 (10, 10, 12, 12, 12) times, p2tog with Y2, ssk with Y1, turn work.
 
Short-Row 3: Sl 1 Y1 st wyf, sl 1 Y2 st wyb, [p1 with Y1, k1 with Y2] 10 (10, 10, 12, 12, 12) times, p2tog with Y1, ssk with Y2, turn work.
 
Short-Row 4: Sl 1 Y2 st wyf, sl 1 Y1 st wyb, [p1 with Y2, k1 with Y1] 10 (10, 10, 12, 12, 12) times, p2tog with Y2, ssk with Y1, turn work.
 
Rep Rows 3 and 4 only 6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10) more times—24 (24, 24, 28, 28, 28) heel sts total rem; 12 (12, 12, 14, 14, 14) sts for each sock.

Gussets
 
Note: You’ll resume working in rounds with the outer sock facing you. When picking up stitches for the gusset, pick up stitches on the outer sock purlwise (see Glossary); and pick up stitches for the inner sock knitwise (see Glossary).
 
Cut the yarns. Exchange the colors, but rejoin them in the corner of the heel flap at the end of the instep sts. The former Y1 sts will be worked with Y2; former Y2 sts will be worked with Y1. As for the legs, the new Y1 will rem at the front of the work and the new Y2 will rem at the back.
 
Set-up rnd: Starting at end of instep sts, with outer sock facing, [pick up 1 st pwise with Y1 from edge outer sock heel flap, pick up 1 st kwise with Y2 from edge of inner sock heel flap] 14 (15, 16, 17, 18, 19) times. Work across 24 (24, 24, 28, 28, 28) heel sts as [p1 with Y1, k1 with Y2] 12 (12, 12, 14, 14, 14) times. [Pick up 1 st pwise with Y1 from edge of outer sock heel fl ap, pick up 1 st kwise with Y2 from edge of inner sock heel fl ap] 14 (15, 16, 17, 18, 19) times. Work across 56 (60, 64, 68, 72, 76) held instep sts as [p1 with Y1, k1 with Y2] 28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 38) times—136 (144, 152, 164, 172, 180) sts total: 68 (72, 76, 82, 86, 90) sts for each sock; pm for beg of rnd at start of sole sts. If you’re not dividing the sole and instep sts on separateneedles, place another marker at the end of the sole sts.
 
Notes: As for the heel turn, rearrange the stitches as necessary for decreasing. These instructions use the p2togtbl decrease (see Glossary) for the gusset and the toe so the two completed socks will look exactly the same. If you prefer, you can substitute the ssp decrease (see Glossary) instead.

Rnd 1: [P1tbl with Y1, k1tbl with Y2] 14 (15, 16, 17, 18, 19) times along side of fl ap, [p1 with Y1, k1 with Y2] 12 (12, 12, 14, 14, 14) times across heel sts, [p1tbl with Y1, k1tbl with Y2] 14 (15, 16, 17, 18, 19) times along other side of fl ap, [p1 with Y1, k1 with Y2] 28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 28) times across instep sts.
 
Rnd 2: (dec rnd) P1 with Y1, k1 with Y2, p2tog with Y1, ssk with Y2, p1 with Y1, k1 with Y2; rep from * to last 6 sole sts (3 sts for each sock), p2togtbl with Y1, k2tog with Y2, *p1 with Y1, k1 with Y2; rep from ** to end of rnd— 4 sts total dec’d; 2 sts dec’d each sock.
 
Rnd 3: *P1 with Y1, k1 with Y2; rep from *. Rep Rnds 2 and 3 only 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 6) more times—112 (120, 128, 136, 144, 152) sts rem; 56 (60, 64, 68, 72, 76) sts for each sock; 28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 38) sts for instep and sole of each sock.

Feet
Cont even until feet measure 7¼ (7¾, 8, 8½ , 8¾ , 9¼ )" (18.5 [19.5, 20.5, 21.5, 22, 23.5] cm) from center back heel or 1½ (1½ , 1¾ , 1¾ , 2, 2)" (3.8 [3.8, 4.5, 4.5, 5, 5] cm) less than desired total length (allowing for a bit of negative ease).
 
Toes
Cut the yarns and swap them so that former Y1 sts will be worked with Y2 and former Y2 sts will be worked with Y1. As for the legs and feet, the new Y1 will rem at the front of the work and the new Y2 will rem at the back.
 
Dec rnd: P1 with Y1, k1 with Y2, p2tog with Y1, ssk with Y2, p1 with Y1, k1 with Y2; rep from * to last 6 sole sts (3 sts for each sock), p2togtbl with Y1, k2tog with Y2, [p1 with Y1, k1 with Y2] 2 times, p2tog with Y1, ssk with Y2, *p1 with Y1, k1 with Y2; rep from ** to last 6 sts (3 sts for each sock), p2togtbl with Y1, k2tog with Y2, p1 with Y1, k1 with Y2—8 sts dec’d total; 4 sts dec’d for each sock; 2 sts for top and bottom of each toe. [Work 1 rnd even, rep dec rnd] 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 8) times, then work 1 rnd even—64 (64, 72, 72, 80, 80) sts rem; 32 (32, 36, 36, 40, 40) sts for each sock; 16 (16, 18, 18, 20, 20) sts for top and bottom of each toe. Rep dec rnd every rnd 6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8) times—16 sts rem for all size; 8 sts on each sock; 4 sts for top and bottom of each toe.

Finishing
Cut both yarns, leaving 8" (20.5 cm) tails. Thread each tail on a tapestry needle, draw through rem sts of the same color, and pull tight to cinch the holes at the tips of the toes.
 
Pull the socks apart triumphantly.
 
Block lightly.
 
Weave in loose ends.

Kate Atherley is a very keen sock knitter who is always seeking new and interesting ways to knit socks. She’s written four books—most recently Custom Socks: Knit to Fit Your Feet—and is a frequent contributor to other publications, including Sockupied. You can find her online at kateatherley.com.
 
This pattern is by permission from New Directions In Sock Knitting: 18 Innovative Designs Knitted From Every Which Way.