Last week, Kristen Tendyke, author of No-Sew Knits, told us about her passions for knitting, math and eco-friendly yarns. Our interview with her continues with more on her passion for no-sew construction and knitting the perfect sweater.
Majestic Tie Cardigan (photo: Interweave Press)
Kristen: As I mentioned last week while
talking about what I love about knitting, writing knitting patterns became easy
for me once I figured out the measurements and learned Excel. At a certain
point it started to seem like I was using the same method of creating sweaters
over and over: back, front, sleeves with caps ... sew them together ... rinse
and repeat. I needed a different type of challenge. I wanted to see what I
could do if I took out the step I enjoyed the least, the seaming.
At first my designs were terrible, and I'm glad they never made it past the sketching and
swatching phase. I had some pretty interesting technique ideas, but their implementation was visually unappealing. But I kept at it, and it
eventually dawned on me that I should be designing for me — as in, I should
design things that I think I'd want to wear. From that point on, the designs
got much better.
My favorite no-sew construction
involves incorporating pockets into a sweater seamlessly. I dabbled with it in
my first book, Finish-Free Knits, and was continuing to play with it as I designed and
wrote No-Sew Knits. In No-Sew Knits, my techniques are refined, and I've included information for 3 different ways to
put seamless pockets into any sweater.
My favorite type of fitted shaping
includes a set-in sleeve cap. I find it to be one of the most comfortable and
visually appealing shapes for a sweater. One of the seamless set-in sleeve
constructions that I use is based on what I learned from Elizabeth Zimmerman's technique. I've
changed it to what I believe is a more modern and flattering fit and to suit
how I would prefer it to look.
Sunshine Pullover Sweater (photo: Joe Hancock)
The other seamless set-in sleeve construction I use involves picking up stitches around the armhole, working short-rows for the cap shaping, then knitting the sleeve from the top down. No-Sew Knits includes instructions for how to add this type of set-in sleeve to any sweater.
Some people say that the biggest con to seamless knitting is that stability can be lost resulting in the garment stretching out of shape. I've found that with the correct fiber choice (such as choosing animal-based fibers over plant and synthetic), then the fabric will generally remain as intended. In designs that I feel that stretching might become an issue, I'll attempt to add stability into the seamless knitting by using faux side seams (or slipped stitches) along the side edges of the body and/or sleeves, or using a three needle bind-off to join the shoulders so the sleeves don't stretch them down the arm further than intended.
The biggest benefit of knitting without seaming is that when you're done knitting, the sweater is finished — no pieces to sew together! Top-down sweaters can be tried on as they're being knit, so you're not left wondering if all that time knitting is worth the effort. I also find the unique constructions really fun to knit.
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Be sure to check out Kristen's book, No-Sew Knits — 20 Flattering Finish-Free Garments. You'll find even more knitting tips and patterns on her website.
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